It's back-to-school time,
probably second only to the Christmas season as a time to buy a new computer.
The year 2000 has seen amazingly rapid advances in computer processors,
fueled by intense competition between chipmakers Intel and AMD, who are
locked in a battle for market share in computer chips. As a result, it's
almost impossible to buy a computer today that's too slow. In fact, the
slowest computer you can buy today is faster than the fastest computer
you could buy two years ago! But speed is only one factor that makes a
computer desirable; let's examine a wide range of factors to help you make
a good buying decision.
Desirability factors:
Speed This directly affects your productivity, since the time you spend waiting
for your computer to complete an operation could be spent doing something
creative.
Reliability
No matter how fast your computer is, if it’s broken, your computer
speed and your productivity are zero.
Features
Some features are standard, some are extra. Not all features are created
equal. Getting the ones you need can require some careful shopping.
Expandability
Although your computer may have today’s latest features, next year
many new features will be available, and you don’t want to buy a new computer
to get them.
Comfort and convenience
Operating your computer should not be painful. That discourages use,
and therefore, productivity.
Speed
You perceive the speed of your computer in terms of the amount of time
it takes to execute an operation. That’s measured from the time you issue
a command (perhaps by clicking on a button in a Windows program) until
the time the result of that command is produced (perhaps displayed on your
monitor screen). Several parameters affect this time lapse: CPU speed,
amount of memory, hard drive speed, and video card speed.
CPU speed
The speed of the chip inside your computer, called the CPU (Central
Processor
Unit), is a big
factor. Thanks to the competition between AMD and Intel, we now have CPU
chips that operate at speeds up to 1 GHz, or 1,000 MHZ. While many of us
may not need a computer that fast, lots of folks do. If you create or edit
large graphics files, including video files, play advanced games, or work
with other large files, you’ll appreciate the fastest processor you can
afford. Similarly, if you do a lot of multitasking, a faster processor
will help. However, the real benefit of the 1 GHz chip may be that it drives
the prices of slower chips down so they are more affordable in typical
systems. Thus we currently have a market where the slowest computer you
can buy off the shelf has a CPU speed of at least 500 MHZ, which by any
reckoning is really fast. Laptops may be a little slower — but only a little.
Regardless of which chip your computer may use, 500 MHZ is fast,
but there are some differences between the different chips. I will attempt
to make some generalizations, but caution you that they may not always
apply. For a chip running at a given clock speed, AMD’s K6-2 chip will
usually be the slowest. Somewhat faster is Intel’s Celeron chip
(currently available in 700, 667, 633, 600, 566, 533, and 500 MHZ versions),
followed by AMD’s Athlon. The fastest chip will be Intel’s Pentium III,
currently available in 1.0GHz (1000MHz), 933, 866, 850, 800, 750, 733,
700, 667, 650, 600, 550, 533, 500 and 450 MHZ versions (the 450 MHZ version
is for laptops). AMD has released two new chips. The Duron, which
should be priced near the Celeron level, and offer equal or better performance.
Initially, Duron chips (made in Austin) will run at 600 MHZ, 650 MHZ, and
700 MHZ. AMD has recently released a new version of the Athlon (featuring
performance-enhancing on-chip L2 cache memory), which is fully competitive
with the Pentium III, and probably cheaper. Computers with the new Athlon
chips are designated as having performance enhanced cache memory or perhaps
some other term. If a computer with an Athlon chip is not labeled as having
the new chip, assume it has an old one. The new Athlon chips are available
in clock speeds of 1GHz, and 950, 900, 850, 800 and 750MHz.
Savvy buyers know that often the chip with a speed rating one or two
steps down from the fastest model is the best value, selling for hundreds
of dollars less than the fastest. For example, the Dell Dimension computer
with the 1 GHz Pentium III currently sells for $770 more than their computer
with “only” an 866 MHZ processor.
Memory
For Windows 98, Second Edition, or Windows Millennium Edition, 32 MB
is the minimum you should consider. 64 MB is better, and 128 MB will help
with processor-intensive tasks like video editing, complex graphics, and
games. For Windows 2000, 64 MB is minimum, with more memory resulting in
faster operation. With memory at or near its all-time low price, there’s
no real reason to have less than 64 MB.
Hard drive speed
IDE drives come in two speeds: 5400 RPM and 7200 RPM. The latter drives
are distinctly faster. ATA 66 IDE connections are faster than other types.
ATA 100 connections may be even faster, although somewhat rare at this
time. An Ultra DMA connection is not the same as an ATA 66 or 100 connection.
Video card speed
A computer command is not completed until the results are displayed
on the screen. So the speed of your video card, which constructs the images
that are displayed on your screen, is an important factor in the perceived
speed of your computer. Advanced game graphics in particular demand all
the speed your video system can deliver, and are responsible for the rapid
development of graphics cards with three-dimensional capabilities. These
cards download many of the graphics computational tasks to the video card,
freeing up the CPU to run programs. That’s why they are sometimes called
graphics
accelerators.
If you’re not a gamer, and run mainly so-called business applications,
which use mostly two-dimensional graphics, you won’t get a lot of benefit
from the latest 3-D video cards. Not that they don’t handle 2-D graphics
very well, but most of their advanced graphics concentrate on their ability
to display 3-D images rapidly and realistically. But don’t invest a lot
in a video card if you aren’t going to need its capabilities. Many home
computers skimp on video cards to save money, by using graphics circuits
built into the motherboard and sharing memory from your computer’s main
RAM. That’s guaranteed to be slow.
Reliability
Fortunately, the two major surveys of computer reliability, from PC
World and PC Magazine, were both updated
in their July 2000 issues, so the information is current. Unfortunately,
the news is that reliability is dropping. Why is that so? Neither magazine
had a conclusive answer. A computer is much less complex than a home theater,
yet has more problems. Three possibilities occur to me:
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users have much greater interaction with computers, and have more opportunity
to screw things up. Not many computers have remote controls,
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computers are built out of major subsystems (the drives, video cards, modems,
etc.) that are designed somewhat in isolation, so incompatibilities can
easily occur; or
-
due to competition to get a product to market, the software drivers that
make the individual pieces work with the operating system are not fully
developed.
Computer Reliability Survey
| Rating |
PC World |
PC Magazine |
| Best |
Dell |
Dell |
| Next Best |
IBM |
Gateway, Hewlett-Packard, IBM, Micron, Quantex, Locally built |
| Next Worst |
Acer, Compaq, Micron, Quantex |
Apple, eMachine, NEC, Sony, Toshiba |
| Worst |
None |
Acer, AST, Compaq, Packard Bell |
The table shows reliability data from the two magazines for home computers,
those that you normally find on the shelf at major retail outlets. They
both divide their data into four levels of reliability, or bands, although
they don’t label them the same way, nor is there a direct correspondence
between bands in the PC Magazine and PC World
surveys. I instituted my own band labels in order to show uniformity. Although
a particular computer brand may appear in different bands in the survey,
there is considerable similarity in where they fall in the overall order
of the survey.
Note that PC Magazine’s survey shows an entry for
locally
built computers — the ones built by shops like many of the advertisers
in PC Alamode. That rating is an average nation-wide,
but indicates locally-built computers are pretty good, and I’m guessing
that their local service is what the survey respondents really liked.
Features
Features that are not yet considered standard include things like DVD-ROM,
rewritable CD-ROM (CD-RW), rewritable DVD-RAM, multichannel sound, flat-panel
monitors, removable storage drives, tape backups. . .the list could go
on and on. With the exception of the rewritable DVD-RAM, every item in
the list is available on some prefabricated computer. But even so, the
items you get in a prefabricated computer (i.e., one that you find on the
shelf in a store) may not represent a good value. For example, if you are
very serious about using a recordable CD-ROM, you may find that those built
into prefabricated computers rather slow. As I write this, the state of
the art in recordable CD-ROMs is Plextor’s 12X/10X/32X model, where the
X-speed ratings are for writable/rewritable/playback. Even those prefab
computers with CD-RW drives may offer only 4X/4X/24X speed. So shop carefully,
or even better, visit a local computer builder who can tailor a computer
to your exact needs.
Expandability
Case size
Some very compact computer cases offer little or no space for adding
extra devices. Of course, you can add devices externally by using USB or
parallel port connections, but external devices are usually more expensive
since they require separate cases and power supplies. They are often slower,
too; and take more space on your desk.
Motherboard slots
Your motherboard is the big circuit board inside your computer that
connects everything together, and provides slots into which to plug expansion
cards. Some computers come with all or most motherboard slots filled, which
prevents your using them for expansion. Using external devices can circumvent
a motherboard slot shortage, also.
Power supply
Your computer’s power supply must be able to carry the load of all
the devices that you install inside the case. Some power supplies offer
less than 100 watts of power, which is marginal. Look
for a power supply of at least 200 watts.
Comfort and convenience
Ergonomics
Your keyboard and mouse should be comfortable to operate, and not cause
pain in your wrist or arm. A curved ergonomic keyboard can help, as can
a mouse or trackball that is contoured to fit your hand. Consider using
a padded wrist rest for the keyboard and mousepad.
Accessibility of ports
If you have a digital camera, a personal digital assistant (like a
Palm Pilot or Pocket PC device), or a digital video camera, you will want
to connect it to your computer sooner or later (sooner for the PDA). Front-panel
USB and IEEE 1394 (FireWire) jacks like the ones on some Compaq computers
make connecting your external devices easy.
Monitor size
Larger monitors show more information on-screen, enhancing Windows’
performance. Or you can set the monitor to display larger objects, making
it easier to read. Get a 17-inch monitor unless your budget is extremely
tight. Also, a lousy picture can rapidly cause eyestrain, so be sure your
monitor displays bright, sharp images with no distortion at the edges of
the screen. I don’t know of any way to ascertain this except to look at
the screen yourself. Or you can read reviews of monitors in computer magazines
like PC Magazine, which frequently rounds up a large
collection of monitors and subjects them to benchmark measurements to evaluate
their performance.
Additional buying tips
Avoid the deep discounts offset by a three-year Internet contract
that are (unfortunately) still so popular at major stores. You can get
stuck with a poor, overpriced, and slow Internet service that way. These
rebates are not really discounts; you wind up paying the money to an Internet
Service Provider. I consider it ethically questionable to
show a price based on application of an Internet discount and then make
you read the fine print to figure it out.
Understand the warranty. If your vendor requires you to carry
the computer back to the shop, find out if you have to remove any devices
you installed yourself, like a tape backup drive or extra memory.
Beware the “package” system, which includes a monitor, printer,
and possibly other items like a scanner or video camera. In most cases,
these systems skimp on one or more components (often the printer) to keep
the price down. There is no reason not to pick your own printer, and for
that matter, your own monitor. Any monitor will work with a given brand
of computer; you don’t need one from the same manufacturer that made the
computer.
Deal with reputable vendors. This should be obvious, but I often
hear of folks buying at a swap meet from an out-of-town vendor, or on an
auction site like eBay. The latter can produce dramatically low prices,
but you’re on your own if the actual merchandise doesn’t meet expectations.
As an eBay aficionado, I have found most sellers to be honest and eager
to make things right if you’re not satisfied, but there are a few bad apples.
Don’t be afraid of direct-to-customer sales from the big companies
like Dell, Gateway, and Micron. Or even from Compaq and IBM. They have
a reputation for helping users that is far superior to the help you’d expect
from a big computer/appliance store. Many are open 24 hours a day, and
offer on-site service in your home for part of the warranty period. Review
the reliability ratings in the table before placing an order. Also find
out about return policies; do you get a 30-day no-questions-asked return
privilege? Or is there a restocking fee?
Consider the online outlet stores run by the big direct-to-customer
companies. These may produce greater savings by selling returned or repaired
computers, which have the same warranties as new units.
Shop, shop, shop! Like any other commodity, knowing what constitutes
a good value in a PC is essential to getting a good deal.
In closing
It’s hard to buy a truly bad computer today. Some are better than others,
and I hope this article made it easier to find a good value.
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