Re-cap Actions
A recap of the first part of the review described the network setup and the Netgear router setup. I tested my existing Lucent/ORINOCO and Multitech PC Cards on the Netgear router with no problems. The Netgear router fit right into my existing network domain. I established it as my DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) Server by assigning a non-public routing Class C IP addressing scheme. I used a 192.168.x.x , Submask 255.255.255.x as my internal network addresses. (Note: the .x are numbers in my addressing scheme.) As my previous router was setup the same way, I did little in the way of re-programing my network computer’s addressing schemes. I turned the NAT (Network Address Translation) on in the Netgear router to further add to my domain security. I also setup the Netgear Wireless Access List to make further use of the built-in security in the router. This process added the MAC addresses of each of my host NICs to the router access list. Only the wireless devices added in this list can access the router and use its services.

I have my Netgear router setup as the main access to the outside world. The cable fits directly into the router from the wall. My server and HP network printer are plugged directly into the router switch. A crossover cable (actually a regular cable) is plugged into the crossover plug of my eight port 10/100 Hub, which contains the cabling for my networked computers..

Performance to Date
I can not complain about the performance of the wireless connections to date in the office. As noted in the first article, we got a connection at about 380 feet on a laptop as it was being driven away from the office. That test was made through one wall, sheet rock and wood, with no glass in the radio frequency path. It turns out that glass, especially mirrors in the house are great reflectors of the signal. There are two mirrors between my workshop room and the office. One is a wall mirror in a bathroom and the other is a large vanity mirror on a wall. These two mirrors cut the signal strength to less than 67 percent in a distance of less than twenty feet.

In a test during the past month, we installed a Netgear PCI wireless NIC in a computer and set the computer up in my backyard and got 88 percent signal strength from the Netgear test program. The distance is about 40 feet through two walls. I browsed the Internet, downloaded files, and printed from this computer in this location. The normal file download rates 100 kbps when the laptop is in the office area.

Network Interface Card Setup
Both the Netgear PC Card and PCI NIC have a utility program that has the Status, Configuration, Encryption, and About information for the NIC. This window is opened by right clicking the icon in the bottom Startup Tool Bar. The window has four tabs marked as Status, configuration, Encryption and About. The graphic shows the utility window.

The Status tab has a display window that shows the MAC address of the NIC in the machine. It shows the current channel, current transmit rate in Mbps, and has a button for rescan and Disable radio. The middle of this tab has two display windows that provide throughput for transmit (tx) and receive (rx) in bytes per second.

The Configuration tab contains four Pull-down menus. The first pull-down menu is to establish the Profile Name. These cards allow for more than one connection profile. Once the profile is setup, then it is shown here to make changes for any connection that it is setup for. The second pull-down menu, Network Mode, has two settings, one for Infrastructure (Access Point) and the second for 802.11 Ad hoc (Computer-to-Computer). The third pull-sown menu establishes the SSID name for the wireless network. There may be more than one SSID, so as the change between networks is made, the SSID name must be changed as well. The fourth pull-down menu, TXRate, has four transmit rates, auto 1 or 2 Mb, 5.5 Mb, 11 Mb, or Fully Automatic. Remember that the IEEE 802.11b specification has fall back rates built-in. This configuration setting allows one to set a specific transmit rate. I leave my settings on the Fully Automatic setting and let the NIC determine what setting it wants. There is a fall-back mode to Restore Defaults button on this tab as well.

The Encryption tab establishes the WEP encryption mode. A pull-down menu allows for the selection of Disabled, 64 bit, and 128 bit encryption. I am currently using the system in the Disabled Encryption mode. Choosing either the 64 bit or 128 bit mode activated the Radio buttons to setup the encryption WEP Key Entry for the encryption. The 64 bit entry provides for manual entry of either Alphanumeric or hexadecimal keys. There are four keys for possible entry. The manual entry also allows for Passphrase encryption. The 128 bit setup also includes either Alphanumeric or hexadecimal keys and the Passphrase key entry.

The fourth tab is About the Netgear PC Card. It gives the Network driver date and version. The configuration date and version. And, the NIC firmware date and version.

Multitech Wireless Router
I next installed a regular Toshiba Cable Modem and a Multitech Model RF802EW wireless router and Access Point. It worked as advertised after I got it setup to my home network settings. I had to change the default IP DHCP addressing scheme to fit my network. I had to track down a cross-over cable to go from the modem to the router. Again, I setup the Multitech utility in the router to recognize the wireless NIC MAC addresses. Again, I set all my network NIC MAC addresses into the router as I had dome on the Netgear router. I do not know if this action enhances the security, but it was done. I did try all three wireless 802.11b NICs against the Multitech router. Each performed equally good. 11 Mbps in the office area and decreased through-put when the Toshiba laptop was moved to another part of the house.

The biggest problem in this exchange of routers was changing the default Multitech setup to that I use in my home network. I miss-installed some of the WAN IP addresses and had a hard time getting everything back in order.

After using this router setup for about three hours, I removed it from the network and reinstalled the Netgear router.

Road Runner Wireless Cost Benefit
The Road Runner Wireless data service costs $14.95 a month above the regular Road Runner data connection cost of $49.95 a month. An additional $179.40 tacked on top of the Road Runner yearly cost of $599.40 is a bit steep. The wireless starter kit hardware is worth the $179.40 as a one time charge. Third-party wireless routers and wireless NICs can be purchased for about that sum. I am not convinced that the service provided is worth the extra cost. Road Runner claims that they do not care how many computers are behind the router and the Netgear router can handle up to 254 by itself. The two or three extra computers in the home office, small office will not strain the overall Road Runner service.

It is very easy to have a home network such as mine complete with server and network ready printer as well as several computers. The overall utility of having a network to do the work greatly expands what a home or small office can do. The wireless network access increases that utility in that I am not tied to my office to do my work. I am able to move to my workshop and still have access. In my case, I am working around the mirror signal reflection problem I have by installing an access point in the workshop so that my wireless connections work at 100 percent.

The access point will have the following form. I will run a CAT 5 cable from my office hub to a switch in the workshop area. This will give me both wired and wireless access to my network. I have a Lucent/ORINOCO Access Point that will be setup of this purpose. The L/O Access Point contains a PC Card with attached antenna for maximum transmission and reception. The red CAT 5 cable plugs into the network switch. The unit contains its own power supply. The cover has been removed to make the internal components visible.

Areas not Tested
I have not really tested the USB wireless port yet. It may prove to be a good device for other network I/O devices such as non-network ready printers. I have also not tested other audio devices such as radio amplifiers for streaming audio. This may be a real benefit for anyone who wants to listen to music.

Conclusions
I have now tested a third party wireless router on the Road Runner setup in my network with no problems. The Multitech RF802EW broadband wireless router worked perfectly with the Road Runner Toshiba broadband modem and with my network.

I believe that the monthly cost of wireless access is excess. A $180.00 one time charge for the Netgear wireless components could be justified. A $14.95 surcharge for the wireless connection is not justified.

Wireless network capability increases my network utility in that am not tied to one network location. I do not have to run CAT 5 cable all over the house to be able to use the network.